Of Silk and Lace (book)

Of Silk and Lace

by Osylvea Surianis of Shard

There was a time when I crafted garments only for a select clientele, men and ladies of both taste and means. Each creation was a work of adoration, a coming together of my art and their desires. My clients knew what to ask for, and I knew how to make their requests into durable, beautiful garments. As my work grew more popular, it became necessary to take on more assistants, and to teach them my ways, just as my teacher taught me his.

I have traveled the lands. I have seen the most flagrant misapplications of style I could imagine. Time and time again, I am asked to create horrible mistakes in silk and lace. As it pains me to see fine fabrics and weaves misused, I shall endeavor to tell the history of these materials as I have learned them.

It is said that the first Ferdahl, Silvathrew, accidentally discovered silk when she discovered a humble silkworm in her bedchamber, and, in fact, on her very pillow. As she lifted it in disgust to be rid of it, she noticed a cocoon of silk attached to the tiny thing. Thus was born an essential component of Elothean vesture.

Elothean silk, in particular, is collected from secret sorts of silkworms that are raised on lotus leaves, at a precise temperature known only to their caretakers. The worms feed and they feed, in hopes of someday spinning perfect cocoons. The cocoons are gathered and dipped in hot water to loosen them, and then they are unspun, to be given to the spinners and weavers who refine it. Silk filaments are extremely fine, and so a single thread requires five to ten of them.

In many families, a proper upbringing includes practice in reeling, spinning, dyeing, and embroidery. It takes much time to create such a beautiful, versatile fabric, but Elothean patience is legendary. With practice comes excellence!

In the beginning, only the Ferdahl wore garments of silk. It was that rare and that fine. Not only is it light, but it is strong. When it is hot, it keeps one cool, and when it is cold, it keeps one warm. Over time, as the precious fabric grew more abundant, others began wearing it. Silk tunics and robes soon became common dress. In these modern times, everyone wears silk.

Not only is the material itself exceptional, but so is the weave. A proper weave will highlight the best qualities of silk, drawing attention to its luster and preserving its strength for years to come. In any form, silk drapes well, dyes beautifully, caresses the body, and shines with a radiance all its own.

• Raw silk possesses a uniquely coarse texture most suitable for outer garments and for draperies and the like. The threads are slightly knotted, lending a sturdy comfort to any garment sewn from it.

• Silk broadcloth (what is meant when most mention "silk") is a mainstay of everyday wear, as it is a plain weave and can be woven in many weights. The ideal silk broadcloth is both crisp and smooth.

• Silk linen resembles common linen (which is made from plant fibers), with its rough surface, but is both more flexible and less prone to wrinkling.

• Striped silk and checkered silk are oddly named, for they are not actually striped or checkered. In both weaves, smooth silk and rough silk are alternated to create texture. Each complements the other to magnificent effect.

• Silk brocade is the pride of Elotheans everywhere. Boasting rich, raised designs in vivid, shimmering colors, it is as much art as it is something to wear.

These are only the most common. Of course, there are fancy, light weaves used in modern day finery, but these are not the traditional weaves, but have been developed recently.

Then there is the matter of Elothean lace. I feel compelled to write that Elotheans likely did not invent lace. However, we have improved it. It has been suggested that the Elves, specifically the City Elves, first introduced us to lace. In time, either by our own curiosity or by request from those Elves, we made it, too, and then we changed it. Be aware, however, that there is no easy way to stitch lace.

Elven lace seems to me to have a certain frothy quality, as foam upon moving water. Elothean lace, on the other hand, is ethereal and wispy, looking more like the intricate web of a spider. This can be explained by taste and by construction.

Originally, the beginning of a piece of lace involved a piece of parchment upon which needle-pricks were made, forming a pattern. That pattern would then be affixed to a cushion, and then stitching would commence, crossing and twisting pairs of threads. Each row held in place by support pins, work would continue below.

Elothean lace is stitched without parchment or cushion, but into the air. Tiny buttonhole stitches form a frame, and then that frame is filled with pattern stitches. Perhaps it is our nimble fingers that allows us to work this way, or perhaps it is our experience with embroidery.

Lace, all lace, is extremely delicate. Even when made from the sturdiest threads, its very nature is its downfall, those arrays of painstaking stitches that are so prone to snagging on anything at all. Our lace is quite popular among the women of Zoluren, and so gladly we send it there.

I pray that this writing will bring sense to those who care to order and wear garments that display appropriate taste and construction. Too often, beautiful fabrics are destroyed by horrible cuts and pointless adornments. I will conclude with the wise words of my own teacher, who murmured often, "Never waste a stitch."