User:SQUANTO/Squanto's Crafting for Dummies

Welcome to Squanto's Crafting for Dummies, the end all be all guide to all things crafting. Here we give you the most inclusive, ridiculously in depth guide to walk you through each of the crafting skills and answer all of your questions before you even know you want to ask them. To the right you will see a Table of Contents, you can click on the section you are most interested in and magically fly right to the information you need! (neat right?) As this page is still a work in progress, you will notice not everything is complete... yet. As soon as -someone- stops being lazy we will have it all done and you will be even more amazed than you already are. Promise.

FORGING FOR DUMMIES

Forging consists of three separate disciplines, each resulting in different types of items; Blacksmithing, Armorsmithing, and Weaponsmithing. In this section, we are going to dive head first into an anvil and see what we can bang out! ( bad jokes are important, stop rolling your eyes or they will get stuck that way!!) We are providing a log with step by step instructions working through a project from the beginning, showing the steps, and prompts for every action. Since some actions are done repeatedly, we are including the system message for those but not making you read the same command 50 times. (For example: "pound awl on anvil" may need to be done several times, you will only see the command once in the log but all the system messages that you might get after doing it.)

BLACKSMITHING

Blacksmithing is the discipline of forging where tools are made, not the jerk that threw a hammer at you for no reason kind of tool, but the tools to make other things kind of tools. (for clarity's sake)

Tools required:

• a forging hammer - for the banging on things
  
• a set of tongs - for the handling of things
  
• a shovel - for the shoveling of things (like fuel and sweat)
  
• some bellows - for the blowing on things
  
• a flask of oil - for oiling!
  
• extra parts for the item you are crafting - pole/cord/etc, these can be found in the forging society, if they are needed, it will be listed in your item's instructions
  
• blacksmithing book - how else would you know what to do?
  
• an ingot - because you need something to make into something
  

Item creation demonstration! The tale of the slender awl

>get your ingot and place it on the anvil.

>get your blacksmithing book

>study my book (note: Before studying the book, make sure that it is turned to the appropriate chapter and page, for the sake of this example, we are making a slender awl.)
You scan the slender awl instructions with a glance and completely understand all facets of the design.
You now feel ready to begin the crafting process.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>stow your book and get your tools, you will need both your forging hammer and your tongs.

>pound ingot on anvil with my hammer
After using the tongs to warm the awl over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and make some adjustments to its shape with carefully timed hammer taps. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>pound awl on anvil with my hammer (note: notice that initially you are pounding the ingot, but once the crafting process begins, the noun changes to the item you are creating)
Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the awl back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.
As you finish the fire flickers and is unable to consume its fuel.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

(note: the "fire flickers" message is going to be random through out the crafting process, so pay attention!)

>put your tongs away and get your bellows

>push bellow
You stoke the fire with strong pumps of your bellows.
Roundtime: 18 sec.
>put your bellows away and grab your tongs again. You stoked the fire so you can get back to the pounding.

>pound awl on anvil with my hammer
Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the awl back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.
As you complete working the fire dies down and needs more fuel.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

(note: needing more fuel requires shoveling, just like with the bellows, this will happen randomly through out the crafting process.)

put away your tongs, and get out your shovel.

>push fuel with my shovel
Gripping the shovel tightly, you slam it deep into the pile of fuel and give it a hard kick. Straining, you remove the shovel with a mound of coal atop and toss it onto the fire.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>stow the shovel, grab your tongs, the fire has fuel, time to pound! (note: if you feel inspired, sing a forging song, don't be a dullard!)

>pound awl on anvil with my hammer
Following solid heating in the forge, you carefully fold the glowing red metal back onto itself and hammer it until both ends are fused. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.

As you complete working the fire dies down and needs more fuel.
Roundtime: 14 sec.
(note: here we would get out the shovel and add fuel to the fire again, for brevity's sake we refer you up a few lines to look at the process there, once shoveling is done, we continue with more pounding! Remember, you need your tongs to hold the ingot/project steady and your hammer to pound on it)

> (note: in the example log we pounded the snot out of the awl a couple more times, this is the messaging you may see)

pound awl on anvil with my hammer
Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the awl back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the awl back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. Blow after blow rings out without any problems at all.
The awl could use some straightening along the horn of the anvil.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>turn awl on anvil with my tong (note: just like with the stoking and fuel adding, the straightening will not always need to be done at the same time in the crafting process. When you see that message you will use this command and then go back to the pounding.)
You angle the awl downward along the anvil's horn with your tongs, and then gently tap it with your hammer.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>pound awl on anvil with my hammer
You scoop up the awl with your tongs and heat it over the flames of the forge. Once the metal is glowing hot you place it back upon the anvil and hammer it steadily with your hammer. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes.
Roundtime: 12 sec.
You scoop up the awl with your tongs and heat it over the flames of the forge. Once the metal is glowing hot you place it back upon the anvil and hammer it steadily with your hammer. Blow after blow rings out without any problems at all.
Roundtime: 12 sec.
After using the tongs to warm the awl over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and make some adjustments to its shape with carefully timed hammer taps. Blow after blow rings out without any problems at all.
The metal now appears ready for cooling in the slack tub.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

>push tub with awl (note: Once you see the "cooling in the slack tub message" you simply push the slack tub with the item you are crafting)
Wisps of hot smoke curl up from the tub as you slip the slender awl into it.
The worked metal looks to be in need of some oil to preserve and protect it.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>put your tongs and hammer away, once you get to the oiling, you are done with the forging part of making an item.

>get awl from anv (note: put your tools away and snag your item!)
You get an unfinished steel slender awl from atop an iron anvil.

>get oil
You get a flask of oil from inside your ornate lootsack.

>pour oil on my awl
You unwrap the cloth surrounding the oil, and use it to rub grime and grit off your slender awl. Then, you pour a small amount on the metal and work it in.
Roundtime: 22 sec.
Applying the final touches, you complete working on a steel slender awl.

(note: this item does not require extra materials, like cords or poles so there is no further assembly required. For items that do need those parts you would simply hold them and use the command "assemble awl with my pole/cord/etc". These items are available in the forging society)

>put your oil away, and assemble your creation if necessary. Now is when you would get out your makers mark stamp and stamp your item.

(note: you don't HAVE to stamp your work, but you should! You made it! Be proud!)

>mark my awl with my stamp
You lay the awl into the hot coals of the forge and carefully hammer the stamp into the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 9 sec.

TA-DA! WE HAVE AN AWL!!

Tempering to make things STRONGER! (then yesterday, now it's nothing but my way...)

(note: tempering an item will make it stronger and more durable, it is not necessary but creates a better item. You do run the risk of damaging the item during the tempering process. BUT! That only happens if you skip or fail a step, check out or section on tempering for more information. This process is also faster than forging the item, so don't skip it!)

>put awl in forge
You glance down at the hot coals of the forge, and reconsider if you wish to do that.
[Putting a weapon or piece of armor on the forge begins the tempering process. This process can make an item more durable, but failing can cause damage to it as well. Put your item onto the forge again in the next 30 seconds, to proceed. You've been warned!]

>put awl in forge (note: see, you even get a warning! You have to do the action twice to start the tempering process)
You carefully disassemble the awl, apply a thin coat of clay to the metal and then place it on the forge.
Roundtime: 20 sec.

>get your tongs back out you don't need you hammer this time.

>turn awl on forge with my tong (note: for tempering you will be turning the item, as opposed to pounding it.)
You gently grasp the awl with your tongs and situate it deeper into the hot coals of the forge.
Roundtime: 14 sec.
You use your tongs to gently dislodge clumps of cooled ash from around the awl's clay shell.
Roundtime: 12 sec.
A whirl of ashes flies up as you use your tongs to heap glowing coals atop the awl laying in the forge.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

With a twist of your tongs, you adjust the orientation of the awl laying in the forge's hot coals, ensuring heat spreads evenly throughout the metal.
As you complete working the fire dies down and needs more fuel.
Roundtime: 18 sec.

(note: OH! Would you look at that! Even in the tempering process you may need to add fuel to the fire. Just put away your tongs for a moment, grab your shovel and "push fuel with my shovel"! Don't forget to get your tongs back out before you get back to turning your item)

>turn awl on forge with my tong
You use your tongs to gently dislodge clumps of cooled ash from around the awl's clay shell. Roundtime: 18 sec.
You grab ahold of the awl with your tongs, and place it outside of the forge's hot coals where it can begin the cooling process.
Roundtime: 15 sec.
Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the awl and remove any lingering hot coals.
The worked metal looks to be in need of some oil to preserve and protect it.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>put your tongs away and get your awl from the forge, you need to get your oil out now. (note: almost finished! Just like with the original creation of the item, you will oil it to complete the tempering.)

>pour oil on my awl
You break the cooled clay off from around your awl and then reassemble the weapon. Next, you unwrap and dampen the oil cloth and thoroughly clean the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

The awl's metal shows improved signs of durability and wear resistance from the successful tempering process.

And just like that, you have tempered your awl!

Awl-analysis!

>analyze my awl (note: here is the analysis of the final project, yours will vary based on the type of ingot you used and your skill level)

You analyze every minute detail of the slender awl and smile knowingly to yourself.
This appears to be a crafting tool and it is in pristine condition.
Sharp pointed tool for making holes in leather.
The workmanship is masterfully-crafted.
Assessing the awl's durability, you determine it is extremely weak and easily damaged.
About 4 volume of metal was used in this item's construction.
The metal appears to be composed of: 67.03% high carbon steel, and 32.97% oravir.
This tool appears to be exceptionally effective at increasing crafting speed.
You recognize this work as your own.
The metal appears to have been slowly tempered to improve its durability.
Roundtime: 10 sec.

ARMORSMITHING

We all know how important armor is, whether you rock the heavy plate or slink around in brigadine, forged armor is a must have for every adventurer. Regardless of guild, mixing up the types of armor you wear is key to being a well rounded individual, so making your own is an added perk from the forge you must learn! (if you want to, no pressure)

Tools Required

• a forging hammer - for the pounding
  
• a set of tongs - for the turning
  
• some pliers - for pulling
  
• a shovel - for the shoveling of things
  
• some bellows - for stoking (we don't want you burning your face off trying to blow on the fire - most of you anyway)
  
• a flask of oil - for oiling
  
• extra parts for the item you are crafting - these can be found in forging society, you instruction book will tell you what you need
  
• armorsmithing book - instructions are necessary
  
• an ingot - to mold into magnificence.
  

The Smithing of Armor, a Ring Hauberk

>get your ingot and place it on the anvil

>get your armorsmithing book

>study my book (note: for this demonstration we are making a ring hauberk, make sure you turn your book to the proper chapter and page before you study it.)

You scan the ring hauberk instructions with a glance and completely understand all facets of the design.
You now feel ready to begin the crafting process.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>'put away your book and get your hammer and tongs out.'

>'pound ingot on anvil with my hammer (note: as the ingot was larger than we needed for our hauberk, the excess kindly stows itself in Squanto's backpack. If there was not enough room, that piece would land at his magnificent feet of awesome.)

You realize the ring hauberk will not require as much metal as you have, and so you split the ingot and leave the portion you won't be using in your backpack.

After using the tongs to warm the metal over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and draw it out into a long, narrow strip. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.

As you complete working the fire dies down and appears to need some more fuel.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>since the fire is dying out, you need to put away your tongs and grab your shovel.

>push fuel with my shovel

Gripping the shovel tightly, you slam it deep into the pile of fuel and give it a hard kick.
Straining, you remove the shovel with a mound of coal atop it and toss the coal onto the fire.
Roundtime: 16 sec.

>put away your shovel and grab your tongs again, and get back to the hammering.

>pound hauberk on anvil with my hammer

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the metal back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.

As you finish working the fire dims and produces less heat from the stifled coals.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>'put your tongs away and grab your bellows, when the fire dims it is time to blow!

>push bellow

You pump your bellows fiercely over the hot coals.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>put your bellows away and grab out the tongs! (note: keep in mind that the fire will need stoking with the bellows and fuel with the shovel from time to time. These things wil happen randomly, so be sure to pay attention!)

>pound hauberk on anvil with my hammer

Following solid heating in the forge, you gradually shape the glowing red metal into several long and thin sections. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the metal back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the metal back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.

The metal now looks ready to be turned into wire using a mandrel or mold set.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

>turn hauberk on anvil with my tong (note: now you will begin alternating pounding with turning, the mandrel rod is part of the anvil, so you don't need any other tools.)

You draw the metal out into a wire and then hook it into a groove on the anvil. Then you twirl it about a mandrel rod, forming an even spool of glowing hot wire.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>pound hauberk on anvil with my hammer

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the metal back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.

The metal now looks ready to be turned into wire using a mandrel or mold set.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

>turn hauberk on anvil with my tong

You draw the metal out into a wire and then hook it into a groove on the anvil. Then you twirl it about a mandrel rod, forming an even spool of glowing hot wire.
Roundtime: 17 sec.

>pound hauberk on anvil with my hammer

After using the tongs to warm the metal over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and draw it out into a long, narrow strip. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.

The metal now looks ready to be turned into wire using a mandrel or mold set.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>turn hauberk on anvil with my tong

You grab a nearby chain mold set with your tongs, and transfer several pieces of heated metal into them. Next, you close the mold and push them deep into the fire to set.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>pound hauberk on anvil with my hammer

You scoop up the hauberk with your tongs and heat it over the flames of the forge. Once the metal is glowing hot you place it back upon the anvil and hammer it steadily with your hammer. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.

The metal now looks ready to be turned into wire using a mandrel or mold set.
Roundtime: 16 sec.

>turn hauberk on anvil with my tong

You pull out a section of metal into wire and spin it about a mandrel with your tongs. Then you clip the end and set it alongside the forge to keep hot.

The hauberk is complete and ready for a quench hardening in the slack tub.
Roundtime: 17 sec.

>WOO HOO! almost done! put away your tools and get your item, you are going to complete it in the slack tub

>push tub with hauberk'

You dump several chain mold sets into the cool water of the slack tub, releasing a blast of steam! Next, you cool a mandrel spooled with wire using the tub, then set everything back atop the anvil.

The links appear ready to be woven into and around a cloth padding.
Roundtime: 23 sec.
You need another finished large cloth padding to continue crafting an unfinished lumium ring hauberk. You believe you can assemble the two ingredients together once you acquire them.

[Ingredients can be added by using ASSEMBLE Ingredient1 WITH Ingredient2]


>holding your hauberk get a large pad out, then begin to assemble your pieces

>assemble my hauberk with my large pad

You place your padding with your ring hauberk and carefully mark where it will attach when you continue crafting.


>get your pliers out now to attach your padding.

>pull my hauberk with my plier

You score and remove a spool of chain links from the mandrel. Then, you carefully begin interleaving them with your pliers. Satisfied with the pattern, you tightly close each rung.

The individual chain links are now ready for stitching together using pliers.
Roundtime: 13 sec.
You need another finished small cloth padding to continue crafting an unfinished lumium ring hauberk. You believe you can assemble the two ingredients together once you acquire them.

[Ingredients can be added by using ASSEMBLE Ingredient1 WITH Ingredient2]


>put away your pliers away and then get a piece of small cloth padding, you will need to assemble that now

>assemble my hauberk with my small pad

You place your padding with your ring hauberk and carefully mark where it will attach when you continue crafting.


>get out the pliers again, and it is time to pull again.

>pull my hauberk with my plier (note: you will be adding more than one piece of small padding, so continue to assemble and pull until you have added all the padding you need.)

You need another finished small cloth padding to continue crafting an unfinished lumium ring hauberk. You believe you can assemble the two ingredients together once you acquire them.

[Ingredients can be added by using ASSEMBLE Ingredient1 WITH Ingredient2]

>pull my hauberk with my plier (note: once you have added all the padding you will continue to pull with your pliers until your hauberk needs oiling)

Alternating between wholly-formed links from the cooled ring molds, and cut ringlets from the mandrel, you weave a complicated trail of interlocking rings into armor.

The individual chain links are now ready for stitching together using pliers.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

You score and remove a spool of chain links from the mandrel. Then, you carefully begin interleaving them with your pliers. Satisfied with the pattern, you tightly close each rung.

The worked metal looks to be in need of some oil to preserve and protect it.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>stow your pliers and get your oil out

>pour oil on my hauberk

Tipping the oil to one side, you dampen a cloth with the syrupy black mixture. Then you run the cloth over the surface of your ring hauberk until an even coat of oil covers it.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

Applying the final touches, you complete working on a lumium ring hauberk.

>Alrighty! You made it so you stamp it! Put away your oil and get out you stamp.

>mark my hauberk with my stamp

You lay the hauberk into the hot coals of the forge and carefully hammer the stamp into the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 9 sec.

Tempering of a Hauberk, because angry armor is better armor!

(note: tempering an item will make it stronger and more durable, it is not necessary but creates a better item. You do run the risk of damaging the item during the tempering process. BUT! That only happens if you skip or fail a step, check out or section on tempering for more information. This process is also faster than forging the item, so don't skip it! )

>put hauberk in forge

You glance down at the hot coals of the forge, and reconsider if you wish to do that.

[Putting a weapon or piece of armor on the forge begins the tempering process. This process can make an item more durable, but failing can cause damage to it as well. Put your item onto the forge again in the next 30 seconds, to proceed. You've been warned!]


>put hauberk in forge (note: that warning will happen any time you temper an item in the forge. You have to preform the action twice to start the process.)

You carefully disassemble the hauberk, apply a thin coat of clay to each metal section and then place it on the forge.

As you finish working the fire dims and produces less heat from the stifled coals.
Roundtime: 21 sec.

>just like with forging, you will have to stoke the fire with bellow or push fuel with your shovel. We are going to skip over those details and jump right in to the turning with your tongs.

>turn hauberk on forge with my tong

Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the hauberk's parts and remove any lingering hot coals.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

You study the hauberk's segments carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal parts can continue to cool evenly.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

You study the hauberk's segments carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal parts can continue to cool evenly.
Roundtime: 18 sec.

Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the hauberk's parts and remove any lingering hot coals.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the hauberk's parts and remove any lingering hot coals.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

You study the hauberk's segments carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal parts can continue to cool evenly.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

You study the hauberk's segments carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal parts can continue to cool evenly.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

You study the hauberk's segments carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal parts can continue to cool evenly.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the hauberk's parts and remove any lingering hot coals.
Roundtime: 18 sec.

Little by little you use your tongs to break away the clay encasing the hauberk's parts and remove any lingering hot coals.

The metal pieces now need to be cleaned of the clay by pouring oil on it.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>put away your tongs get out your oil and grab your item, you are ready for the final step!

>pour oil on my hauberk

You break the cooled clay off from around your hauberk's pieces and then reassemble the armor. Next, you unwrap and dampen your oil cloth and thoroughly clean the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

The hauberk's metal shows improved signs of durability and wear resistance from the successful tempering process.

AND... DONE! That was not so hard, was it?

Hauberk Analysis, What ya got there?

>analyze my hauberk (note: this is our finished project, your analysis will vary based on materials used and skill level)

You analyze every minute detail of the ring hauberk and smile knowingly to yourself.
This appears to be a type of finished metal chain armor that is masterfully-crafted.
The hauberk is a challenging piece to make.
It was made by someone with a bit less skill than your own.
About 70 volume of metal was used in this item's construction.
The metal appears to be composed of: 33.00% tin, and 67.00% lumium.
You recognize this work as your own.
The metal appears to have been slowly tempered to improve its durability.
Roundtime: 10 sec.

WEAPONSMITHING

The glorious Squantorious is the master of all things weapon. It has been said that the gods themselves are jealous of his might. (Of course they are, no one pull of pink and brawny like Squanto.) Weaponsmithing it the forging discipline that allows him to create his masterpieces. (see Squanto's Rare Metal Weapons and drool)

In this section we will talk about everything that goes in to crafting your own personal doom weapon. The only thing you MUST do is forge it (duh), the other steps are just enhancements. You can either Balance or Hone a weapon, you can always Temper them, and should.

Balancing a weapon makes it easier to swing, but takes away a little of the power. (Squanto balances all of his weapons, the slight loss to power is made up by what you gain in ease of swing)
Honing a weapon reduces it's weight.
Tempering makes a weapon stronger and more resistant to damage.

Tools Required:

• forging hammer - for the pounding on things
  
• a set of tongs - for the handling of things
  
• a shovel - for the shoveling of things
  
• some bellows - for the blowing on things
  
• a flask of oil - for oiling (Squanto uses world dragon tears, because he can)
  
• extra parts for the item you are crafting - haft/hilt/etc, these can be found in the forging society just like with blacksmithing supplies
  
• weaponsmithing book - for the directions
  
• an ingot - to channel your creative energies in to!
  
• a wire bristled brush - for balancing you weapons
  

Item creation demonstration! A throwing hammer to smash thine enemies!

>get your ingot and place it on the anvil

>get your weaponsmithing book

>study my book(note: Just like with any craft, before studying your book, make sure it is turned to the appropriate chapter and page. For the sake of this demonstration, we are creating a throwing hammer)

You scan the throwing hammer instructions with a glance and completely understand all facets of the design.
You now feel ready to begin the crafting process.
Roundtime: 4 sec.

>stow your book at get your tools. You will need a forging hammer and a set of tongs"

>pound ingot on anvil with my hammer(note: the ingot we began with was larger than needed for this item, because Squanto carries the world in his backpack, there was not enough room for the extra metal to be stored so it ended up at his feet. Watch for that so you do not lose materials.)

You realize the throwing hammer will not require as much metal as you have. Your backpack is too full, so you split the ingot and leave the portion you won't be using on the ground.

Following solid heating in the forge, you carefully fold the glowing red metal back onto itself and hammer it until both ends are fused. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

>pound hammer on anvil with my hammer

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the hammer back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. Blow after blow rings sound without any problems at all.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

Following solid heating in the forge, you carefully fold the glowing red metal back onto itself and hammer it until both ends are fused. The work proceeds as planned and you avoid introducing any defects.

As you complete working the fire dies down and appears to need some more fuel.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>put away your tongs and get your shovel (note: any time you use the forge you will have to shovel fuel, or use the bellows to stoke the fire, it is important to watch for that messaging because skipping those steps can ruin your project.)

>push fuel with my shovel

You quickly find a rhythm with shoveling load after load of coal into the fire. Eventually the fuel begins to catch and the fire picks up in intensity.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>pound hammer on anvil with my hammer (note: we put away the shovel and grabbed the tongs again, then back to the pouding!)

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the hammer back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes.
As you finish working the fire dims and produces less heat from the stifled coals.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>put away the tongs again... and get your bellows (note: where these things happen in the crafting process is random, so again, pay attention!)

>push bellow

You force copious amounts of air into the hot coals by pumping the bellows.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

>pound hammer on anvil with my hammer(note: bet you can guess what we put away and took out! That's right! Bellows stowed, tongs in hand!)

You scoop up the hammer with your tongs and heat it over the flames of the forge. Once the metal is glowing hot you place it back upon the anvil and hammer it steadily with your hammer. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

After using the tongs to warm the hammer over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and make some adjustments to its shape with carefully timed hammer taps. The forging proceeds exceptionally well and free of mistakes
The hammer could use some straightening along the horn of the anvil.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>turn hammer on anvil with my tong (note: straightening requires turning with tongs, go figure.)

You angle the hammer downward along the anvil's horn with your tongs, and then gently tap it with your hammer.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>pound hammer on anvil with my hammer

You scoop up the hammer with your tongs and heat it over the flames of the forge. Once the metal is glowing hot you place it back upon the anvil and hammer it steadily with your hammer. Blow after blow rings sound without any problems at all.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

Sparks fly into the air as you transfer the hammer back and forth between the forge fires and the anvil, alternating heating with vigorous hammering of the metal. With expert precision the metal takes shape without any faults.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

After using the tongs to warm the hammer over the forge fire, you place it down upon the anvil and make some adjustments to its shape with carefully timed hammer taps. Blow after blow rings sound without any problems at all.
The hammer is complete and ready for a quench hardening in the slack tub.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>push tub with hammer(note: Once you see the "quench hardening in the slack tub" message you simply push the slack tub with the item you are crafting)

Gusts of hot steam billow from the tub as you submerse the scorching hot throwing hammer.
The hammer now appears ready for grinding and polishing on a grinding wheel.
Roundtime: 24 sec.

You need another finished wooden haft to continue crafting an unfinished steel throwing hammer. You believe you can assemble the two ingredients together once you acquire them.
[Ingredients can be added by using ASSEMBLE Ingredient1 WITH Ingredient2]

>stow your tools and get the hammer and haft to get ready to assemble the weapon (note: remember, you can purchase the extra pieces in the forging society)

>assemble haft with my hammer

You slide the haft onto the hammer and affix it securely in place.

>turn grind (note: once the hammer is assembled you will polish it on the grindstone, it is part of the forge and you don't need any extra tools at this point.)

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
It seems to be picking up speed now but is still rather slow.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

>push grind with my hammer (note: now that you get the "keeping it spinning fast" message you are ready to polish your weapon.)

You position the throwing hammer against the spinning wheel and gently polish the metal surfaces. Next, you turn the hammer around and grind away at sections to improve its center of balance.
With grinding complete, the metal now needs protection by pouring oil on it.
Roundtime: 30 sec.

The grindstone begins to lose momentum. (note: this is just room messaging, you are done with the polishing and since you are no longer spinning the grindstone you will see it slow down and eventually stop)

>get out your oil and pour oil on your hammer

You unwrap the cloth protecting your oil, and pour several drops over the throwing hammer. With gentle strokes you wipe the oil across the metal's surface until only a glossy sheen remains.
Roundtime: 30 sec.

Applying the final touches, you complete working on an steel throwing hammer.

Balancing balances better...(don't be a shlub, balance your weapons, Bub!)

>you will need to get your weaponsmithing book back out, remember the chapter and page can vary with game resets or crashes so make sure you are in the right chapter and on the right page, go there, study, make better quality weapons! REMEMBER you can either Balance or Hone, but you can not do both.

>study book

You begin to study the instructions and slowly understand how to balance metal weapons. A balanced weapon can parry better, and is easier to hit enemies with. However, adjusting the balance will reduce the power the weapon is capable of striking with and make it less likely to land stunning blows.

To begin with you will need to get a grindstone spinning fast by TURNing it. Then you can PUSH the grindstone with your weapon, periodically making sure it needs no deburring by RUBing it with a wire brush.

To complete the process you will need to POUR some oil onto the weapon to clean and protect it. Just remember that you can Hone, or Balance a weapon - but not both!
You scan the weapon balancing instructions with a glance and completely understand all facets of the design.
Despite this, the difficulty will depend primarily on the difficulty of the base item being altered. The chance of success will depend on the final quality achieved.
You now feel ready to begin the crafting process.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>get your brush and your weapon, then begin turning the grind stone again, until you see the "keeping it spinning fast" messaging

>turn grind

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
It seems to be picking up speed now but is still rather slow.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>push grind to my hamm

Leaning over the wheel, you heft the throwing hammer across the spinning stone and send a shower of sparks dancing along the floor as metal bits grind away.
Roundtime: 32 sec.

The grindstone begins to lose momentum.

>turn grind (note: when you see the grindstone begin to lose momentum you need to turn it again until you get it back up to top speed)

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>push grind to my hamm (note: back up to full speed, you can grind your weapon again, this will happen through out the balancing process, just keep it spinning, think of the muscles!)

You weave the throwing hammer about the stone wheel, selectively removing sections of metal to improve the weapon's balance.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

>turn grind

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

>push grind to my hamm
You angle the throwing hammer against the wheel and gently cut into the metal. Back and forth you slide the metal across the stone as sparks fly all about.
Roundtime: 22 sec.

The grindstone begins to lose momentum.

>turn grind
Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>push grind to my hamm

Leaning over the wheel, you heft the throwing hammer across the spinning stone and send a shower of sparks dancing along the floor as metal bits grind away.

The grinding has left many nicks and burs in the metal that should be cleaned away.
Roundtime: 19 sec.

The grindstone begins to lose momentum.

>rub my hamm with brush (note: when nicks and burs appear, use your brush and smooth them away!)

You scrape the length of your throwing hammer with the brush and smooth out the burs and shavings leftover from the grinding process.
Roundtime: 16 sec.

> (note: you will continue turning the grindstone and pushing it with your weapon, brushing when "nicks and burs" appear. Once you are done honing, you will be asked to oil the weapon to complete the process)

You scrape the length of your throwing hammer with the brush and smooth out the burs and shavings leftover from the grinding process.


With grinding complete, the metal now needs protection by pouring oil on it.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>put your brush away and get out your oil

>pour oil on my hamm

Tipping the oil to one side, you dampen a cloth with the syrupy black mixture. Then you run the cloth over the surface of your throwing hammer until an even coat of oil covers it.
Roundtime: 22 sec.

The hammer was successfully balanced, without badly damaging it in the process.

>put your brush away and get your stamp, not neccessary, but take pride in your work!

(note: keep in mind that there is a limited amount of time that you have to add your stamp, Squanto the Grand! suggests doing before or right after balancing. Don't wait to long to leave your mark!)

>mark my hamm with my stamp

You lay the hammer into the hot coals of the forge and carefully hammer the stamp into the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 9 sec.

Humming and Honing, mostly Honing

>you will need to get your weaponsmithing book back out, remember the chapter and page can vary with game resets or crashes so make sure you are in the right chapter and on the right page, go there, study, make lighter weapons! REMEMBER you can either Hone or Balance, but you can not do both.

>study book

You begin to study the instructions and slowly understand how to hone metal weapons. Honing uses stock removal with a grinding wheel to reduce the weight of a finished weapon. Honing can be useful to reduce the weight of a weapon when ore with a reduced density is unavailable.
To hone a weapon you must first get a grindstone spinning fast and then PUSH the grindstone with the weapon. Occasionally, you will then need to RUB the weapon with a wire brush to smooth any burrs from the stock removal.
Lastly, a coat of oil will have to be POURed onto the metal to protect it. Be sure to remember that you can Hone, or Balance a weapon - but not both! You scan the weapon honing instructions with a glance and completely understand all facets of the design.
Despite this, the difficulty will depend primarily on the difficulty of the base item being altered. The chance of success will depend on the final quality achieved.
You now feel ready to begin the crafting process.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

>stow your book and get out your wire-bristled brush and hold the weapon you are working with

>turn grind (note: we are going to be turning the grindstone A LOT, the goal is to get it to the top speed)

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
It seems to be picking up speed now but is still rather slow.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

>push grind to my hammer (note: just like with balancing, you will push your weapon to the grindstone and then have to turn the grindstone to get it spinning again)

Leaning over the wheel, you heft the throwing hammer across the spinning stone and send a shower of sparks dancing along the floor as metal bits grind away.
Roundtime: 22 sec.

The grindstone begins to lose momentum.

>turn grind

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>push grind to my hammer

Leaning over the wheel, you heft the throwing hammer across the spinning stone and send a shower of sparks dancing along the floor as metal bits grind away.
Roundtime: 19 sec.

>turn grind

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

>push grind to my hammer

You angle the throwing hammer against the wheel and gently cut into the metal. Back and forth you slide the metal across the stone as sparks fly all about.
Roundtime: 24 sec.

>turn grind

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>push grind to my hammer

Leaning over the wheel, you heft the throwing hammer across the spinning stone and send a shower of sparks dancing along the floor as metal bits grind away.

The grinding has left many nicks and burs in the metal that should be cleaned away.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>rub my hammer with brush (note: "nicks and burs" mean time to brush your weapon!)

You scrape the length of your throwing hammer with the brush and smooth out the burs and shavings leftover from the grinding process.
Roundtime: 24 sec.

>turn grind (note: just keep spinning, spinning, spinning...)

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you add force to the grindstone, making it spin even faster.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

Grabbing the handle you strain to turn the grindstone.
Straining a bit less you maintain force to the grindstone, keeping it spinning fast.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

>push grind to my hammer

You angle the throwing hammer against the wheel and gently cut into the metal. Back and forth you slide the metal across the stone as sparks fly all about.
Roundtime: 17 sec.

> (note: you will continue turning the grindstone and pushing it with your weapon, brushing when "nicks and burs" appear. Once you are done honing, you will be asked to oil the weapon to complete the process)

>push grind to my hammer

You weave the throwing hammer about the stone wheel, selectively removing sections of metal to reduce the weapon's weight.

The grinding has left many nicks and burs in the metal that should be cleaned away.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

>rub my hammer with brush

You scrape the length of your throwing hammer with the brush and smooth out the burs and shavings leftover from the grinding process.

With grinding complete, the metal now needs protection by pouring oil on it.
Roundtime: 23 sec.

> put away your brush and get your oil, this is the last step!

>pour oil on my hammer

After applying some of the oil to the rag, you vigorously buff several rough spots on the throwing hammer and spread the protective sheen across the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 24 sec.

The hammer was successfully lightened in weight, without badly damaging it in the process.

(note: keep in mind that there is a limited amount of time that you have to add your stamp, so we will add it now, just like we did once balancing was complete. Don't wait to long to leave your mark!)

>mark my hamm with my stamp

You lay the hammer into the hot coals of the forge and carefully hammer the stamp into the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 9 sec.

Temper, Temper, Weapon of DESTRUCTION!

(note: tempering an item will make it stronger and more durable, it is not necessary but creates a better item. You do run the risk of damaging the item during the tempering process. BUT! That only happens if you skip or fail a step, check out or section on tempering for more information. This process is also faster than forging the item, so don't skip it! )

>put hamm in forge

You glance down at the hot coals of the forge, and reconsider if you wish to do that.

[Putting a weapon or piece of armor on the forge begins the tempering process. This process can make an item more durable, but failing can cause damage to it as well. Put your item onto the forge again in the next 30 seconds, to proceed. You've been warned!]

>put hamm in forge (note: see it is all about the warnings! you have to do the action twice to begin the tempering process for weapons too)

You carefully disassemble the hammer, apply a thin coat of clay to the metal and then place it on the forge.
Roundtime: 15 sec.

>turn hamm on forge with my tong (note: don't forget your tongs, you will need them for turning, and turning, and turning... you may need to add fuel to the fire with your shovel or stoke the flames with your bellows as well )

With a twist of your tongs, you adjust the orientation of the hammer laying in the forge's hot coals, ensuring heat spreads evenly throughout the metal.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

You gently grasp the hammer with your tongs and situate it deeper into the hot coals of the forge.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

With a twist of your tongs, you adjust the orientation of the hammer laying in the forge's hot coals, ensuring heat spreads evenly throughout the metal.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

You use your tongs to gently dislodge clumps of cooled ash from around the hammer's clay shell.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

You gently grasp the hammer with your tongs and situate it deeper into the hot coals of the forge.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

You grab ahold of the hammer with your tongs, and place it outside of the forge's hot coals where it can begin the cooling process.
Roundtime: 14 sec.

You study the hammer carefully and then decide to turn it over with your tongs so the metal can continue to cool evenly.

The metal now needs to be cleaned of the clay by pouring oil on it.
Roundtime: 13 sec.

>put away your tongs, grab your weapon and your oil, you are almost done!

>pour oil on my hamm

You break the cooled clay off from around your hammer and then reassemble the weapon. Next, you unwrap and dampen the oil cloth and throughly clean the metal's surface.
Roundtime: 24 sec.

The hammer's metal shows improved signs of durability and wear resistance from the successful tempering process.

and...BAM!!! YOU HAVE A FINISHED WEAPON FOR MURDERFACING THINE ENEMIES AND FRIENDS!

Analyzing ze Hammer! of Dooooom! and Throwing!

>analyze my throwing hammer (note: here is the analysis of the final project, yours will vary based on the type of ingot you used and your skill level)

You analyze every minute detail of the throwing hammer and smile knowingly to yourself.
This appears to be a type of finished large metal blunt weapon that is masterfully-crafted.
The hammer is a challenging piece to make.
It was made by someone with a bit less skill than your own.
About 10 volume of metal was used in this item's construction.
The metal appears to be composed of: 67.04% high carbon steel, and 32.95% oravir.
You recognize this work as your own.
The grind pattern shows this weapon was modified to improve its balance.
The metal appears to have been slowly tempered to improve its durability.
Roundtime: 10 sec.

TEMPERING SECTION! (just like we promised)

Tempering makes a weapon or tool stronger and more durable. (We know, we said that already but it is important!)It is not a necessary step, however, tempering is a quick and easy step that improves the overall quality of your project. Here are some tempering fun facts:

• You can damage your item while tempering it, by skipping or missing a step, or lack of skill.
  
• You can fix your item if you damage it, either by yourself with the advanced repair tech or take it to a repair shop.
  
• You can temper a damaged item again yourself, or have some on with more skill do it.
  
• You need the tempering techniques in order to temper.
  
• "took tempering techs" does not fulfill your anger management course requirement for your probation, in case you were wondering. (shocking! we know)
  

FEATS for your feets! or forging if you want to be boring. (fine... they are techs, stop being so picky!)

Because nothing is ever simple, there are a few techniques that are must haves in order to preform some of the finishing actions when forging and each discipline has it's own set. You can learn these techs from the society masters and as you earn more ranks, you unlock more techs. Easy, right?

BLACKSMITHING

In order to temper tools you need basic metal smelting which leads to basic tool repair. then advanced tool repair, and finally tool tempering.

That is not nearly all of the techs you can earn, or the ones that you will need, check out Blacksmithing techniques for a complete list of holy crap! all of those!

ARMORSMITHING

For armor tempering you will need metal armor tempering, this is for non-rare metal armors. Once you have that you can earn rare-metal armor tempering. (note: lumium is considered a rare metal so you will need this tech to temper it.)

For armor reinforcing you will need metal armor lightening and then metal armor reinforcing.

Armorsmithing techniques gives you fun little TECH TREES so you can see the full range of possibilities!

WEAPONSMITHING

Weapons can be both tempered and honed, so there are two pathways of techniques that you will need.

Tempering begins with metal weapon tempering for non-rare metals, and then rare metal weapon tempering for rare metals. (note: lumium is still considered rare here, but why the heck are you making lumium weapons?? STOP IT!)

Balancing is going to start off with weapon honing and then weapon balancing. Remember how we said that balancing is not required, and you trade a point of suitedness for a point of balance? These are the techs you need to make that happen.
For a more complete look at the TECHNIQUE TREE OF TECH-NESS, we shall refer you to Weaponsmithing Techniques.

IMPORTANT NOTE! READ THIS! DO IT NOW!!

While all of the techniques are important in their own right, the repair techs are not only time savers but can also help protect your tools, weapons, armor and YOU! Just like repaired armor protects better, and repaired weapons fight harder, keeping your tools in good repair ensure you will create the best possible item. These techs are time and money savers and should be a priority for anyone planning to spend time in the forge.

OUTFITTING MADE EASY!

TAILOR-MADE BY YOU! (or just Tailoring, if you want to be boring like that)

When you talk about the process of tailoring, you will find that there is much more to it than just sewing some fabric together and hoping not to stab your finger. This discipline allows you to do everything from creating thread and cloth to making your end product and sealing it. In this section we will walk you through making and sealing a fantabulous pair of gloves, from fibers to finish. So dredge up those spinning wheel fantasies and get read to MAKE SOME GLOVES!

Spinning Fibers Into Thread

To begin you need to fibers of what ever type of thread you are making. We purchased some silk fibers in the society to make ours, it is sold in 30 yard increments, and we purchased 13 units, combining them together to get 390 yards of silk fibers. Once you have your fibers you need to go to the society's Spinning Room.

>put my fiber on wheel
You carefully wrap some silk fibers around a large spinning wheel.

>look wheel
The spinning wheel is wrapped with some silk fibers and appears adjusted to produce fine thread.
You see nothing unusual.

>adjust wheel to fine (note: for the sake of demonstration we are making fine thread, you can adjust the wheel to accomodate whatever thickness of thread you want to make)
You adjust the wheel to spin fine thread by tightly restricting the fibers upon it.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

>spin wheel
Back and forth you spin a thread of fiber from around your wheel onto a spool. With gentle tugs and twists your fingers shape the thread onto the spindle.

A counter-twist in the fiber strand threatens to unravel if not corrected.
Roundtime: 4 sec.

>turn wheel (note: just like with all crafting projects, you will have to make adjustments as you go for a high quality result, turning and cleaning the wheel will do that for thread making)
Using both hands you begin turning the thread's strands back upon themselves while keeping the line taut. When finished, the thread looks even once more.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>spin wheel
The wheel rocks in the crook of your arm as you spin thread from the fiber around it. Hand over hand you deftly spin fiber off the wheel and into thread on the spindle.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

Back and forth you spin a thread of fiber from around your wheel onto a spool. On touch alone, your hands expertly pull the fiber into long strands of thread.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

The wheel rocks in the crook of your arm as you spin thread from the fiber around it. With gentle tugs and twists your fingers shape the thread onto the spindle.
Roundtime: 3 sec.

Back and forth you spin a thread of fiber from around your wheel onto a spool. The fiber rolls between your fingers and out into masterfully crafted thread.

The spun thread begins taking on a dull shade from grime trapped in the fiber.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>clean wheel (note: spit cleaning!)
Wetting your fingers, you run them over the fibers atop your wheel and clean off several visible grime stains.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

>spin wheel
Back and forth you spin a thread of fiber from around your wheel onto a spool. On touch alone, your hands expertly pull the fiber into long strands of thread.

Individual strands of the fiber begin twisting apart unevenly.
Roundtime: 1 sec.

>turn wheel
Using both hands you begin turning the thread's strands back upon themselves while keeping the line taut. When finished, the thread looks even once more.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>spin wheel
You position your wheel against your leg and use both hands to draw its fiber out into thread. Hand over hand you deftly spin fiber off the wheel and into thread on the spindle.

A counter-twist in the fiber strand threatens to unravel if not corrected.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>turn wheel
Using both hands you begin turning the thread's strands back upon themselves while keeping the line taut. When finished, the thread looks even once more.
Roundtime: 2 sec.

>spin wheel
You position your wheel against your leg and use both hands to draw its fiber out into thread. The fiber rolls between your fingers and out into masterfully crafted thread.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

You spin your wheel in one hand while gently pulling out a thread of fiber with the other. The fiber rolls between your fingers and out into masterfully crafted thread.
Roundtime: 11 sec.

You tie off the spool and are left with some fine silk thread. (note: as you complete your thread you will see that the messaging changes, when you are finished you will automatically tie off the thread)

Weaving Thread Into Cloth

Creating cloth is done in the society on a loom, you will need two lengths of thread. For our example we used the thread we created in the Fiber to Thread example so we had two 390 yard pieces of fine silk thread. After weaving we will end up with 39 yards of fine silk cloth. (note: the type of thread you use will determine the type cloth you weave)

>put my thread on loom
You load a hefty loom with all of some fine silk thread.


>put my thread on loom (note: remember, we said we needed two lengths of thread)
You load a hefty loom with all of some fine silk thread.


>weave loom
A slight whoosh accompanies your raising the loom's heddles to form a shed. The loom's shuttle zips across the shed of warp threads and the weft battens together evenly along the edge.

You notice some dust and debris obstructing the pirn of the shuttle.
Roundtime: 4 sec.

>clean loom
You remove the pirn from the loom's shuttle and completely untangle all the knots and loops threatening the next pick.
Roundtime: 7 sec.

>weave loom
A slight whoosh accompanies your raising the loom's heddles to form a shed. Pick after pick the shuttle passes effortlessly through the warp threads, forcing you to pause only for minor adjustments and taking up the cloth.

You notice some dust and debris obstructing the pirn of the shuttle.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>clean loom
Tipping the loom's shuttle upside down you smack it several times with your hand and dislodge all the debris accumulated within.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>weave loom
With a pull of the beam, you swap heddles securing the warp threads on the loom. You pass the shuttle back and forth across the loom, your skill showing in the exceptional quality weave produced along the cloth's edge.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>weave loom
With a pull of the beam, you swap heddles securing the warp threads on the loom. The loom's shuttle zips across the shed of warp threads and the weft battens together evenly along the edge.

Several weft threads bunch together from a tight turn in the fabric.
Roundtime: 6 sec.

>turn loom
With a slight turn you adjust the position of the loom's heddles, perfectly aligning the warp threads before weaving further.
Roundtime: 12 sec.

>weave loom
A slight whoosh accompanies your raising the loom's heddles to form a shed. The loom's shuttle zips across the shed of warp threads and the weft battens together evenly along the edge.

You notice some dust and debris obstructing the pirn of the shuttle.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

>clean loom
Tipping the loom's shuttle upside down you smack it several times with your hand and dislodge all the debris accumulated within.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

>weave loom
You shift the loom's beam and swap the raised heddles with the lowered ones. You pass the shuttle back and forth across the loom, your skill showing in the exceptional quality weave produced along the cloth's edge.

You notice some dust and debris obstructing the pirn of the shuttle.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>clean loom
Tipping the loom's shuttle upside down you smack it several times with your hand and dislodge all the debris accumulated within.
Roundtime: 5 sec.

>weave loom
You shift the loom's beam and swap the raised heddles with the lowered ones. Pick after pick the shuttle passes effortlessly through the warp threads, forcing you to pause only for minor adjustments and taking up the cloth.

The cloth threads begin to unravel along the fell and need pushing together.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

>push loom
Inch by inch you take up woven cloth over a roller on loom's frame, careful not to crease it, and then re-tighten the warp threads.
Roundtime: 8 sec.

You snip off the bolt of fabric and are left with some fine silk cloth.

>count my cloth

You count out 39 yards of material there.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE AL-AL-ALCHEMY!

Because it is good to have a pocket Empath, but most of us don't have Empath-sized pocket, alchemy becomes the next best thing. Currently, remedies are the only discipline live, which is handy since that is what we are going to be discussing! (As other disciplines happen, we will add those and -someone- will forget to take out this line and need it pointed out to her.) You can forage all the herbs you need, but honestly that can be time consuming and requires skill that not every alchemist has, or wants. Here we will start with a chart showing the herbs available in the society, their quantity, quality, workablility, weight, cost, and area healed. (The cost is in Dokoras as this is the superior form of currency.)

Herb Type	Quantity	Quality	Workability	Weight	Society Cost (doks)	Body Part
Dried Nemoih	25	99	50	25	180	ext head wound
Dried Plovik	25	70	50	25	225	ext chest wound
Dried Jadice	25	65	50	25	270	ext limb wound
Dried Nilos	25	70	50	25	315	ext abdomen wound
Dried Georin	25	70	50	25	315	ext neck wound
Crushed Riolur	25	70	50	25	405	int neck wound
Crushed Junliar	25	70	50	25	383	int back wound
Crushed Aevaes	25	70	50	25	387	int eye wound
Dried Genich	25	65	50	25	469	ext torso scar
Crushed Ojhenik	25	70	50	25	721	int torso scar
Dried Red Flowers	25	70	50	25	248	external remedies
Ithor Root	4	70	50	4	72	int chest wound
Qun Pollen	4	70	50	4	76	ext face scar

• you can also purchase water (10 parts for 45 doks) and grain alcohol ( 10 parts for 58 doks) in the society. Water is used for wound remedies and alcohol for scars.

For a complete foraging guide to Healing Herbs click on that link (the blue healing herbs one), we are focusing on readily available, nimble finger-free herbs for the every day practitioner of remedy alchemy.

Disclaiming Disclaimer

Crafting does not have to be hard. As we add more content you will be AMAZED with the amazing and yell "Amazeballs!" as you stare in amazement!
This page is a work in progress... if you have questions or concerns or high praise! please feel free to contact either the GREAT SQUANTO via aim at Squantodr or Synamon via aim at bluturtl1428. we know that this is a huge-normous project and are striving to keep it as user friendly as possible, while creating a one stop kind of place for your crafting questions <3 (the people behind Squanto and Synamon)

Look! LINKS!

Squanto's Rare Metal Weapons
Squanto